The Eternal City

We awoke early, as we had an important early morning stop at the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli (St. Mary of the Angels) on our way out of Assisi before making our way to the Eternal City. It contains the Chiesetta of Porziuncola, the little church of St. Francis, and is one of the most sacred place for Franciscans.

Francis was given this little church, dating from the 9th century, by the Benedictine monks, as Francis moved from the city, to live a life of simplicity and dedciation to the poor.

It was in this very place where tradition holds that St. Francis heard the words of the Gospel call: "Everywhere on your road preach and say -- The kingdom of God is at hand. Cure the sick, raise the dead, cleanse the lepers, drive out devils. Freely have you received, freely give. Carry neither gold nor silver nor money in your girdles, nor bag, nor two coats, nor sandals, nor staff, for the workman is worthy of his hire" (Matthew 10:7-10).

The chapel has been decorated since by artists from different periods. Above the entrance is the fresco by Johann Overbeck (1829). It depicts St. Francis receiving from the Christ and the Virgin the indulgence, known as the “Pardon of Assisi”. The austere interior is decorated in a simple Gothic style with frescoes from the 14th and the 15th century. The most outstanding work is the six-part fresco in the apse, painted by Viterbo (1393). At the back, above the entrance, is a fresco depicting the Crucifixion by Perugino.

Here in this church too is the infirmary, now called the Chapel Transito where St. Francis died.

At the back of the church we found the rose garden, all that remains of the ancient woods where Francis and his friars lived. It is here that St. Francis met St. Anthony of Padua.

There we found a statue of St. Francis that doubles as a home for doves and another which depicts the famous legend of St. Francis talking with a wolf.

The Rose Chapel contains a beautiful collection of frescos by Tiberio Diatelevi that chronicle the life of St. Francis and his followers, as well as a rope belt, that tradition holds was worn by Francis himself.

The stop was a great addition to our Franciscan "pilgrimage" during this special year - the 800th anniversary of the founding the Order of St. Francis.

After lingering a long while at the gift shop, we were back on the bus and on our way to Rome. The weather became more threatening as we left our lunch stop at the Auto Grill, but nothing could dim our spirits as we approached the Eternal City. And as if to confirm that the sun would eventually brighten our day, we zipped by a field of sunflowers that each traveler had been hoping to see since we arrived in Assisi. Unfortunately, we were a little early in the sunflower season and these were not facing our way.

No words are adequate to describe what it was like. For years I have been dreaming of the day I could visit St. Peter's Square, the Vatican. After another three hour bus ride, check in at our hotel and quick change for Mass at the Altar of the Throne of St. Peter, the moment finally arrived.

It was so surreal seeing the dome of Saint Peter’s from our bus, almost as though we weren’t really there and I was imagining it all. But, of course, we were there and I found myself tearing up the instant we stepped through the column arcade of Saint Peter’s Square. It was so completely overwhelming - to think that I was standing at the home of my faith tradition, the true heart of the Catholic Church.

We made our way up the front steps of the Basilica and went to the side of the porch, getting in line to enter the Vatican catacombs. The area was filled with the music of Gregorian Chant as we walked through the darkened corridors - reflecting upon the lives of saints and popes which marked the Church’s great history. Soon we reached the tomb of Pope John Paul II. It was such an overwhelming honor to, in some way, be in the same room with such a great and holy man.

I recalled the Diocesan Scholar application I wrote my junior year of high school where I named JP II as the one deceased person I would want to have dinner with, given the chance. I thought of all the things I would want to say to him, the things I’d like to learn from him, and the ways that he has helped me and my family. It was a truly emotional experience. The crowd was large here, and I wished we didn’t have to rush through. Apparently, many hope that upon the upcoming anniversary of his death, that his crypt will be moved upstairs, near the chapel of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary. No photographs are allowed here, so I have included a stock photo here.

Likewise, I wish I had been able to spend more time contemplating the tomb of Saint Peter. These were perhaps of the most monumental and meaningful moments of the trip. Again, the illustration here is a stock photo.

But our afternoon, pre-Mass Vatican experience wasn’t over yet; as we had forty-five minutes to admire the upper floor of the Basilica.

As we entered, I could have sworn that I stopped breathing for a moment, looking at the church that was, without a doubt, one of the most magnificent things I have ever seen.

I was completely taken with the light from golden ceiling that towered above me and the numerous painted domes that made me feel as though I was suspended in mid-air.

The first stop I made on my private walk through Saint Peter’s was the Pieta, a statue that I have heard of for years, and was an extended topic for conversation in my favorite high school class - AP Art history! Thanks Mr. Smull.

I was amazed by its beauty but also angered by the fact that someone would have the nerve to deface such a beautiful piece of artwork. I have been continually amazed by the brilliance of Michelangelo during this trip, and can only imagine what it will be like when we see the Sistine Chapel in two days. I took an endless string of pictures - statues, paintings, mosaics whch filled the church.

The Basilica centers around the Papal Altar, where only the Pope celebrates Mass. It was consecrated by Clement VIII in 1594. Rising above the altar is the Baldacchino (a 95ft. canopy overthe cental altar), Gian Lorenzo Bernini's masterpiece and first work in St. Peter's. The ancient tomb of St. Peter lies directly below the altar.

The Apse (a projecting part of a church, usually semicircular most often, projecting from the east) is at the end of the central nave. In the center is the Altar of the Chair of Peter, which is again, the work of Bernini. This grandiose sculpture monument was created to enclose the wooden throne of the Apostle Peter. It was here that we would be singing in about two hours time. It was here that we would be singing in about two hours time.

The four prominent statues are of Doctors of the Church. Western Doctors represented are St. Ambrose - Pastoral Doctor, 340-397 (left front) and St. Augustine - Doctor of Grace, 354-430 (right front). Eastern Doctors represented are St. Athanasius - Doctor of Orthodoxy, 295-373 (left rear) and St. John Chrysostom - Doctor of Preachers, 345-407 (right rear).

The choir attended Vespers, sung in Latin. It was hard not to fixate on the throne of Saint Peter, which was absolutely beautiful, as it hovered in the air above the main altar. I've seen the image of the Holy Spirit, in the stained glass above the chair so many times, in so many places. If everyone could only see the whole image from where I am sitting right now!!!!!

Soon it was time for us to get in position to sing for Mass at the Vatican. It gave me chills to hear our own version of O Magnum Mysterium resound through the church as the celebrant processed up the main aisle to the altar - where so many Popes have offered the Mass. Although the liturgy was much more stressful that I had thought it would be, it provided a memory that will last a lifetime, an opportunity that so few ever have.


It was difficult to leave Saint Peter’s that afternoon, feeling as though I could stay there forever. Still, we would be returning later in the week. We held an impromptu mini-concert outside in St. Peter's Square. Our parents were in rare form, as was just about everybody who passed by.


Then it back to the bus for a change into street clothes. (You learn to change just about any where and under any conditions when you are on CCVA tour). A quick dinner was followed by a beautiful evening stroll to a nearby plazza. Some say that Rome is even more dramatic at night.