Michel's Masterpiece

Today was our last day in Rome and I must admit that I very sad at the prospect of leaving the Eternal City the next morning. So far Rome had been everything I had hoped -- its holiness nurturing my soul and its beautiful history and art nurturing my mind.

Today would be no different as we began our day at the Vatican Museums, composed of never ending rooms of classical Greek and Roman statues, ceramics, and tapestries. We learned that very few bronze statues still exist in Rome. So the example displayed in this room was more significant that one might have thought.

As with most tours, the best was saved for last. This time, in the form of the Sistine Chapel, where we continued to experience the greatness of Michelangelo.

Once more I stood speechless staring at paintings I had previously only read of in books. Not only was the artistry magnificent, but so was the historical significance of the space. This was the chapel where the College of Cardinals meet in conclave, which our guide told us means "lockable room," to elect the Supreme Pontiff, the leader of the Catholic Church.

Perhaps because it was summer, maybe because supervision in the chapel seemed too casual, photographs were being snapped everywhere. With some reservation, Dad did likewise.

Although I could have starred at the ceiling forever, our tour guide ushered us out back into Saint Peter’s to give us free time for the rest of the afternoon to shop and get lunch or even to climb to the top of the church’s dome!

My dad and I along with a small troop from the choir jumped at the chance to see the spectacular view from the top of the Basilica. Here's a shot on our way up, while we were still inside. You just cannot appreciate the familiar stained glass shown here, unless you have seen what surrounds it! Dad's getting pretty good with his new camera. No?

We made our way up the long, winding, and even slanted steps. Finally, when it seemed like we had been walking forever, we reached the top and took plenty of pictures of the view looking over Vatican City, an absolutely breathtaking sight.


What or who goes up, must however, come down, and we soon found ourselves back in the church itself. We took still more pictures before getting some lunch and making some purchases along St. Peter's Square!

Thanks to Dad's pervious visit with Fr. Joe and the Villanova Pellegrinaggio, he was able to point out two important features in the square. First, was the stone which marks the spot where Pope John Paul II was shot. (At one time, the marker had been a simple red stone.) Secondly, he called our attention to the a mosaic that John Paul had installed after his recovery. It's a window dedicated to Mary, the Mother of God - significant because it symbolizes John Paul's contention that it was her protection and intervention that saved his life.

Then we made our way to the Basilica of John Lateran. We discovered that the buildings adjacent to the church were actually used in earlier time days to house the pope for a time.

We saw clearly the umbraculum, an historic symbol of the Roman Church and the authority of the pope over it. The insignia only appears on papal basilicas.

The interior of the basilica was as incredible as any we had seen. The statues of the twelve apostles lined the nave of the church, six on a side. The altar was spectacular. Tradition holds that the crypt above holds the heads of Saints Peter and Paul.

Next on the agenda were the Catacombs di San Callisto. We made our way underground through the winding corridors of tombs. It was an eerie and dark maze of earth, a perfect setting for a haunted house in which anyone could easily get lost, if not for our excellent tour guides. One of the highlights of the tour was certainly the grave of Saint Cecilia, patron saint of music and a very important inspiration for our choral group.

Soon we were back into the light, taking a break for some dinner before getting ready for our last presentation in Rome. As in the States, we saw "outdoor dining" everywhere there was a square in Italy. To our surprise, we were actually going to get a chance to try it out. Ours was another dine and dash routine. Even though we had our concert attire on the bus, we needed time to dress and rehearse before the performance at the Chiesa Nuova. Still, the cool breeze was refreshing and the pasta, as always, hit the spot.

As it turned out, our late evening concert served up a few unusually stressful wrinkles. First, many of us had "over done" - using free time to use up rather than conserve energy. Second, our guests for the evening included ACIS and Encore "brass." Third, a college choral director "visitor" was on hand to "see a signature CCVA performance." Fourth, tapestries, which hung almost everywhere in the church, sucked up the sound from both our instruments and voices. Rehearsal was, how do you say, tense. Could we rise to the challenge? St. Peter's and Mary Major seemed like rolling out of bed, just now. This was not going to be easy.


Rally we did, however. Another large crowd was responsive and appreciative. But there was a lesson to be learned here. Some of us might have tried to see a little too much Rome today, and for the rest of the trip, no running up steps when an elevator is available! It had been an exhausting day - really.

We headed back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep before saying Arrivederci to Rome the next morning.

Never Too Much Rome

We began our day by visiting the Church of Saint Peter in Chains with another great professional tour guide. Although its exterior was not particularly characteristic of a church, what it contained was so much more important. Inside was a famous sculpture of Moses created by Michelangelo, in which he is depicted with horns (as a result of the literal translation of the Hebrew word for ‘light’) and a rare depiction of Saint Sebastian (rare insofar as he was clothed!)

But the most important relic was still to be seen; the chains in which Saint Peter was imprisoned while he was in jail. I could hardly believe the amount of Church history that we were witnessing on this tour. What a blessing to be part of such an amazing trip.

Next, we moved onto the Coliseum, which I fondly remember writing an AP Art History Essay almost two years, a lifetime ago! Ever since then I’d been anticipating the day when I would finally be able to see the columnar history displayed on its façade, featuring Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian columns as well as Roman Pilasters. Look closely and compare the decoration on each row in the picture below!

Again, awe struck, as we drove up to this ancient wonder, and continued to be amazed as we toured the structure, despite its unfortunately bloody past. It’s astonishing to think of the accomplishments of the ancient world as you stand in one of these creations. People without the advantageous of the technology we have in today’s modern world were still able to design and build monumental structures that remain standing to this day.

Walking through the structure and looking at the magnificent views of the ruins of Ancient Rome made me feel like I was truly a part of history, traveling back to a time when life was so much simpler, but no less amazing.

We left the Coliseum and got back on the bus for a driving tour of the city, where we saw glimpses of Roman hallmarks such as Mussolini’s Terrace and the Roman Senate.

Our tour ended at the Pantheon, another significant building, characterized by its coffered dome and open oculus. The original Pantheon of Rome was built between 27 & 25 BCE. It was dedicated to 12 gods of heaven.

What we see today is a reconstruction done in 118 CE under the leadership of emperor Hadrian, who intended the rebuilt Pantheon to be a sort of ecumenical temple where people could worship any and all gods they wished. Later, it was given to Pope Boniface IV, who consecrated it as a church dedicated to Mary and the Martyr Saints in 609.

This is the official name which it continues to bear today and masses are still celebrated here. The Pantheon has also been used as a tomb: among those buried here are the painter Raphael, the first two kings, and first queen of Italy. Monarchists maintained a vigil at these latter tombs. We stopped in, singing for the tourists inside, before free time for lunch, shopping and a quick trip back to the hotel to dress for perhaps the main event of the tour. Afterwards, we took an opportunity to take a group shot of the adults on the tour. They were impossible!


One of my Dad's goals for the trip was to visit the four major or papal basilicas of Rome. St. Peter's, St. Mary Major, St. John Lateran, and St. Paul Outside the Walls. Each possess a Holy Door, used only in a Jubilee Year, an altar for the exclusive use of the Pope and a papal throne. It's also the Jubilee Year of the Apostle Paul, declared by Benedict XVI, almost a year ago. Villanova University has sponsored a world class, year long lecture series this year in support of the Jubilee Year, so it was a must see for that reason as well.

Since all but St. Paul was on the tour agenda, Mom and Dad used their free time to visit St. Paul's. Apparently, there was a beautiful gift shop and aside from a little trouble finding a cab for the ride back, they arrived at St. Mary Major with plenty of time to spare.


Since our return, the Jubilee Year of St. Paul has closed. The remains of St. Paul entombed at the Basilica Outside the Walls have been in the news. Pope Benedict announced that recent scientific tests verify that the sarcophagus long believed to be the tomb of St. Paul contains remains dating from the first or second century. "This seems to confirm the unanimous and uncontested tradition that they are the mortal remains of the Apostle Paul," he said.

Then came the event that will always remain in my mind as the highlight of my four years with CCVA; our private Mass with Cardinal Foley at the Basilica of Saint Mary Major.

It was such an honor to be able to celebrate Mass with this great man of the Church in such a magnificent Basilica. The time allowed us an opportunity to appreciate CCVA - how it inspires us as we inspire others. The Mass was simply perfect! And Cardinal Foley’s gratitude was incredibly touching. Yes, he is a "hometown boy," a native of Philadelphia, a graduate of St. Joe's. Now a Cardinal, still, he took time out of his busy schedule to spend time with us and greet each of us personally.

Later that evening after dinner, we were treated to two more of Rome’s famous landmarks, the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps for some group pictures before going to bed. We were exhausted, but all for a remarkable cause!

The Eternal City

We awoke early, as we had an important early morning stop at the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli (St. Mary of the Angels) on our way out of Assisi before making our way to the Eternal City. It contains the Chiesetta of Porziuncola, the little church of St. Francis, and is one of the most sacred place for Franciscans.

Francis was given this little church, dating from the 9th century, by the Benedictine monks, as Francis moved from the city, to live a life of simplicity and dedciation to the poor.

It was in this very place where tradition holds that St. Francis heard the words of the Gospel call: "Everywhere on your road preach and say -- The kingdom of God is at hand. Cure the sick, raise the dead, cleanse the lepers, drive out devils. Freely have you received, freely give. Carry neither gold nor silver nor money in your girdles, nor bag, nor two coats, nor sandals, nor staff, for the workman is worthy of his hire" (Matthew 10:7-10).

The chapel has been decorated since by artists from different periods. Above the entrance is the fresco by Johann Overbeck (1829). It depicts St. Francis receiving from the Christ and the Virgin the indulgence, known as the “Pardon of Assisi”. The austere interior is decorated in a simple Gothic style with frescoes from the 14th and the 15th century. The most outstanding work is the six-part fresco in the apse, painted by Viterbo (1393). At the back, above the entrance, is a fresco depicting the Crucifixion by Perugino.

Here in this church too is the infirmary, now called the Chapel Transito where St. Francis died.

At the back of the church we found the rose garden, all that remains of the ancient woods where Francis and his friars lived. It is here that St. Francis met St. Anthony of Padua.

There we found a statue of St. Francis that doubles as a home for doves and another which depicts the famous legend of St. Francis talking with a wolf.

The Rose Chapel contains a beautiful collection of frescos by Tiberio Diatelevi that chronicle the life of St. Francis and his followers, as well as a rope belt, that tradition holds was worn by Francis himself.

The stop was a great addition to our Franciscan "pilgrimage" during this special year - the 800th anniversary of the founding the Order of St. Francis.

After lingering a long while at the gift shop, we were back on the bus and on our way to Rome. The weather became more threatening as we left our lunch stop at the Auto Grill, but nothing could dim our spirits as we approached the Eternal City. And as if to confirm that the sun would eventually brighten our day, we zipped by a field of sunflowers that each traveler had been hoping to see since we arrived in Assisi. Unfortunately, we were a little early in the sunflower season and these were not facing our way.

No words are adequate to describe what it was like. For years I have been dreaming of the day I could visit St. Peter's Square, the Vatican. After another three hour bus ride, check in at our hotel and quick change for Mass at the Altar of the Throne of St. Peter, the moment finally arrived.

It was so surreal seeing the dome of Saint Peter’s from our bus, almost as though we weren’t really there and I was imagining it all. But, of course, we were there and I found myself tearing up the instant we stepped through the column arcade of Saint Peter’s Square. It was so completely overwhelming - to think that I was standing at the home of my faith tradition, the true heart of the Catholic Church.

We made our way up the front steps of the Basilica and went to the side of the porch, getting in line to enter the Vatican catacombs. The area was filled with the music of Gregorian Chant as we walked through the darkened corridors - reflecting upon the lives of saints and popes which marked the Church’s great history. Soon we reached the tomb of Pope John Paul II. It was such an overwhelming honor to, in some way, be in the same room with such a great and holy man.

I recalled the Diocesan Scholar application I wrote my junior year of high school where I named JP II as the one deceased person I would want to have dinner with, given the chance. I thought of all the things I would want to say to him, the things I’d like to learn from him, and the ways that he has helped me and my family. It was a truly emotional experience. The crowd was large here, and I wished we didn’t have to rush through. Apparently, many hope that upon the upcoming anniversary of his death, that his crypt will be moved upstairs, near the chapel of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary. No photographs are allowed here, so I have included a stock photo here.

Likewise, I wish I had been able to spend more time contemplating the tomb of Saint Peter. These were perhaps of the most monumental and meaningful moments of the trip. Again, the illustration here is a stock photo.

But our afternoon, pre-Mass Vatican experience wasn’t over yet; as we had forty-five minutes to admire the upper floor of the Basilica.

As we entered, I could have sworn that I stopped breathing for a moment, looking at the church that was, without a doubt, one of the most magnificent things I have ever seen.

I was completely taken with the light from golden ceiling that towered above me and the numerous painted domes that made me feel as though I was suspended in mid-air.

The first stop I made on my private walk through Saint Peter’s was the Pieta, a statue that I have heard of for years, and was an extended topic for conversation in my favorite high school class - AP Art history! Thanks Mr. Smull.

I was amazed by its beauty but also angered by the fact that someone would have the nerve to deface such a beautiful piece of artwork. I have been continually amazed by the brilliance of Michelangelo during this trip, and can only imagine what it will be like when we see the Sistine Chapel in two days. I took an endless string of pictures - statues, paintings, mosaics whch filled the church.

The Basilica centers around the Papal Altar, where only the Pope celebrates Mass. It was consecrated by Clement VIII in 1594. Rising above the altar is the Baldacchino (a 95ft. canopy overthe cental altar), Gian Lorenzo Bernini's masterpiece and first work in St. Peter's. The ancient tomb of St. Peter lies directly below the altar.

The Apse (a projecting part of a church, usually semicircular most often, projecting from the east) is at the end of the central nave. In the center is the Altar of the Chair of Peter, which is again, the work of Bernini. This grandiose sculpture monument was created to enclose the wooden throne of the Apostle Peter. It was here that we would be singing in about two hours time. It was here that we would be singing in about two hours time.

The four prominent statues are of Doctors of the Church. Western Doctors represented are St. Ambrose - Pastoral Doctor, 340-397 (left front) and St. Augustine - Doctor of Grace, 354-430 (right front). Eastern Doctors represented are St. Athanasius - Doctor of Orthodoxy, 295-373 (left rear) and St. John Chrysostom - Doctor of Preachers, 345-407 (right rear).

The choir attended Vespers, sung in Latin. It was hard not to fixate on the throne of Saint Peter, which was absolutely beautiful, as it hovered in the air above the main altar. I've seen the image of the Holy Spirit, in the stained glass above the chair so many times, in so many places. If everyone could only see the whole image from where I am sitting right now!!!!!

Soon it was time for us to get in position to sing for Mass at the Vatican. It gave me chills to hear our own version of O Magnum Mysterium resound through the church as the celebrant processed up the main aisle to the altar - where so many Popes have offered the Mass. Although the liturgy was much more stressful that I had thought it would be, it provided a memory that will last a lifetime, an opportunity that so few ever have.


It was difficult to leave Saint Peter’s that afternoon, feeling as though I could stay there forever. Still, we would be returning later in the week. We held an impromptu mini-concert outside in St. Peter's Square. Our parents were in rare form, as was just about everybody who passed by.


Then it back to the bus for a change into street clothes. (You learn to change just about any where and under any conditions when you are on CCVA tour). A quick dinner was followed by a beautiful evening stroll to a nearby plazza. Some say that Rome is even more dramatic at night.